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Thread: Gauges?

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    jwcshorty's Avatar
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    Default Gauges?

    Loooking to put some gauges in my car, but not sure which ones to get or where to get them from? Boost is the only one i'm 100% on....so 2 more needed. 52mm is the size needed too. All need to match in color and style.

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    GlowShift is a great non-expensive gauge with good features and accurate readouts. GlowShift Performance Gauges & Pods ? Automotive Boost Gauges, Pyrometer
    I went with Vacuum/Boost (better than just a boost gauge because it helps you hypermile when need be), Volt (cold climate and aftermarket electronics) and Oil Pressure (standard for any car really).

    Other gauges to really consider are: Wideband Air-Fuel Ratio, Exhaust Gas Temperature, Oil Temperature, Water Pressure and Water Temperature.
    Really what gauges you need are based on what you're doing with the vehicle.

    Tuners: Vacuum/Boost, Wideband, Exhaust Temp (or Fuel pressure)
    Cold Climate: Vacuum/Boost, Oil Temp, Volt
    Hypermiler: Vacuum/Boost, Oil Pressure, Water Pressure

    ^ those are just some examples.
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    whats the difference between
    -Mechanical Boost gauge
    -Electronic Boost guage

    price is see !@

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    I believe it's: The mechanical ones are based on pressure from the engine bay and the electronic is from an electronic signal from the cars computer system.
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    Mechanical Boost Gauge:
    Requires a pressure line to be routed directly to the gauge. This often requires finding an appropriate pre-existing hole in the firewall or one to be made.

    Pros:
    - Fastest gauge response time, a direct and virtually instant measurement of boost and/or vacuum.
    - Lower cost
    - Less to fail

    Cons:
    - generally longer in length than electronic versions, and requires extra room for pressure line connection
    - may require drilling into firewall for pressure line (not require for the Genesis)

    Electronic Boost Gauge:
    Rather than a pressure line fed directly into the gauge, the line is connected to a pressure sensor box that then transmits the determined readout to the gauge via usually a single signal wire. The signal wire can typically be routed safely through an existing wiring harness hole in the firewall.
    In most cases, the pressure sensor box induces a latency to the signal and readout on the gauge can be anywhere from milliseconds to full seconds making proper and accurate readouts very difficult.

    Pros:
    - Generally very easy to wire in.
    - Usually shorter in length making mounting very easy.
    - Can't get fluids or gases from the engine into the cabin through the pressure line.

    Cons:
    - These units typically cost more than their mechanical/analogue counterparts.
    - Slow readouts that make gauging boost leaks, peaks and tuning difficult.
    - More parts that could break that are costly to replace.


    Hope this helps.
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    Default sooooo

    sooooooooo Mechanical Boost Gauge is sounding better.....can i get though the firewall somewhere to run the lines? can you put some pics up cause i know you installed a 3 pod in your car? thanks

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    I routed my wires and pressure line through my hood release grommet. Since the hood release cable is pre-sleeved, it won't rub through.

    Pic isn't my car, this pic was taken when looking at it from the engine compartment. To do this, get either some wire lube or vaseline.

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    can i fit three lines though that small hole.....or how many did you fit?

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    I ran my boost line and my Positive wire from the battery and a negative wire from the battery (Needed those for my volt gauge and 12v constant) your switched source can be gotten from your power point fuse.
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    well i got my pods installed....loooks awesome

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