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Thread: Installing boost gauge and DynoJet CMD

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    preston_nfs's Avatar
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    Default Installing boost gauge and DynoJet CMD

    On vaccation as of tomorrow and I'm finally going to get around to installing my boost gauge I've had for a few months and put in my new DynoJet CMD.

    Only thing I'm not sure on is installing the electrical part of the gauge. Anyone have any tips or a guide on how I'd go about that? If possible I would like to avoid splicing wires.
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    CMcCane's Avatar
    CMcCane is offline Administrator CMcCane has a reputation beyond repute CMcCane has a reputation beyond repute CMcCane has a reputation beyond repute CMcCane has a reputation beyond repute CMcCane has a reputation beyond repute CMcCane has a reputation beyond repute CMcCane has a reputation beyond repute CMcCane has a reputation beyond repute CMcCane has a reputation beyond repute CMcCane has a reputation beyond repute CMcCane has a reputation beyond repute
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    Can't wait to see the boost guage install. We still need to hook one up on Lindsey's Coupe but I wanted to see where you guys were tapping off of. Good luck!
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    I've got the electrical part bolted to the firewall. Out of the way and safe

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    Quote Originally Posted by CMcCane View Post
    Can't wait to see the boost guage install. We still need to hook one up on Lindsey's Coupe but I wanted to see where you guys were tapping off of. Good luck!
    T-ing into the Intake Manafold where the check valve is.

    Quote Originally Posted by Pmastron View Post
    I've got the electrical part bolted to the firewall. Out of the way and safe
    My gauge just has 4 wires about 6 inches long. Can you give me bit of info about what you used? Would you recommend a professional to wire it up?
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    I got mine installed by a pro. You can't go wrong that way especially on the vacuum side. It's a nightmare

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    I'm about half way done that walk through.. I need to find some pics I took, resize them, upload them and finish the last few steps of the walkthrough.
    Your boost line connects right to the gauge right?
    And the gauge has a Yellow, Orange, Purple and Black wire off the back?
    My way of it you'll need to know some basic electrical terms and parts though, cause I don't know what else to call things.
    And start looking for a 3/4 to 5/32 adapter, you might have to make one, if you can, get the 5/32 part with a PSI check valve, thats needed for Glowshift gauges, otherwise you'll need to figure out how to cap off one end of the T-fitting that Glowshift sent you.
    I have to go to Regina tomorrow so latest will be Monday evening I can finish it up.
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    So I hooked up the GlowShift 30 PSI Boost / Vacuum Gauge but driving it hangs around 15 inHg and will only goes up to 5 PSI when I punch it. I'm pretty sure I did it correctly but this is my 1st time installing a gauge. Could this be because its a boost/vacuum gauge and not just boost?

    Here's a pic of the gauge.


    My setup. (Not done tidying it up but you get the idea.)
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    at idle mine sits at 20inHg, then runs up to 18-20PSI when I punch it really hard, otherwise usual it goes up to 0PSI then heavy goes up to 10-15PSI. But I have mine tapped into a different spot than you. Try hooking it up on the otherside of that check valve and see what you get.
    Crusing around 110kph you should be getting about 10inHg.
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    Thanks for the info snoopy. I just cruised around the block at 50kph. I'll take her out on the highway tomorrow morning and check the readings.
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    Just an update. I took the car out on the highway so I could run it harder, the gauge is working fine. I just dropped the car off at a local custom car shop so they can do the electrical and mounting work for me. Excitied to see how it turns out. Will post pictures later!
    2010 Hyundai Genesis Coupe 2.0T - 6 Speed (Nordschleife Grey)

    *** Pictures and mod list updated April 3rd, 2011 ***
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